Installing the dishwasher

Installing the dishwasher starts with choosing the right place for installation. Of course, if the machine you selected is built-in, you already figured out where it will be at the time of purchase. But when choosing a place, you need to consider several important points:

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  It is desirable that the length of the drain hose connected to the sewerage is no more than 1.5 m (for longer lengths the pump of the machine will fail earlier);
• 
  the dishwasher must have an outlet - it is not allowed to connect the dishwasher to the extension cord.

Installation of the dishwasher consists of several stages: water supply, organization of a drainage system andelectricity supply. After that, the dishwasher is leveled and the machine is tested. Some experts believe that the installation of a dishwasher should start

We will begin with supply of water. Most modern dishwasherswork from the cold water supply system. There are two options. If there is a flexible connection from the riser, then in this case you need to install a tee with a corner tap or a ball valve to the drain tank. If there is no flexible layering, then on the rigid pipes it will be necessary to install a separate drainage system and connect a shut-off valve. Before the shut-off valve, you can additionally install a coarse water filter.

The crane is connected to the machine with the help of special flexible hose - it is included in the delivery. If the hose is too short (especially for dishwashers equipped with a leakage protection system), you can replace it with a longer one or extend it. But this is an option for an extreme case.

So, the water failed. Installing the dishwasher continues organization of waste water disposal (drain system). The dishwasher is connected to the sewage system through a special siphon using a drain hose. Siphon should be equipped with an additional tap and bypass valve.

First, the drain hose is fixed above the tap insewage (optimal height - 50-80 cm), and then join the siphon through the kink. If one and a half meters of the length of the hose is not enough to lift and bend, you will have to extend it - up to three, up to five meters. But it is desirable to still meet the "native length": we already wrote above that long drain more quickly disables the pump.

Then electricity is supplied to the washing machine. To do this, you need install a new outlet, designed for a current of at least 16A. The outlet should be close to the machine (we already wrote why) and be easily accessible: after each cleaning, the machine must be switched off from the outlet. Ideally, it should be a three-pole socket with earthing contacts.

To connect the dishwasher to theelectricity from the electrical panel is a separate three-core copper wire (diameter - 2 mm). In the shield itself a protective circuit breaker of 16A is installed - it provides automatic shutdown of the machine when a certain load is reached. To avoid overloads, the machine must be connected in parallel with the other protective devices. The third wire must be earthed. Do not ground the wire to gas, heating and water pipes!

When the dishwasher is connected, it must be leveled by adjusting the height of the legs to make it stand perfectly even. The maximum allowable dishwasher angle is 2 degrees. Everything, now the installation of the dishwasher is finished!

Now it remains to check how the dishwasher works. The first run is a single, it is carried out without utensils, but with a detergent and a special regenerating salt. During this start-up, you need to check how quickly water is poured and heated, how drainage and drying takes place.

Installing a dishwasher is not an easy task, especially if you do not have the skills of plumber and electrician. So it's better all the same entrust this matter to professionals: Initially, you will have to pay a little more, but it will eventually come out cheaper than doing everything after an unsuccessful installation.