Fruit acids: is it worth being afraid?

Let's see what the fruit acids are. The scientific name of these acids - hydroxy acids (hydroxycarboxylic acids, alpha hydroxy acids or AHA-acid Is an abbreviation of English alpha hydroxy acid). And "fruity" they were called by marketers - this name is better remembered and attracts consumers. Many of the hydroxycarboxylic acids were indeed first found in fruits. They owe their effectiveness to their home face masks from fresh fruits and vegetables.

In medicine and cosmetology, the following AHA acids are most commonly used:

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  lactic acid;
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  glycolic acid;
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  Apple acid;
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  wine acid;
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  lemon acid.

Often used in cosmetology salicylic acid refers not to alpha, but to beta-hydroxy acids, but is often used in combination with AHA-acids, enhancing exfoliation of the skin.

Fruit acids are most commonly used in exfoliating and anti-aging remedies. They have a complex effect: alpha hydroxy acids not only exfoliate dead skin scales, but also stimulate the production of collagen and cell regeneration. Thanks to this fruit acids make the skin more elastic, even its color and help to fight pigmentation, mask skin defects and reduce the depth of wrinkles.

Where did the rumors about the dangers of fruit acids come from? For this you need to remember the old saying that any medicine in large quantities can become a poison. Concentrated fruit acids affect not only the epidermis, but also the deep layers of the skin, so improper use of high-concentration fruit acids can cause irreparable damage to the skin..

For this reason, the use of cosmetics with a content of fruit acids should be taken very carefully. So, cosmetics containing ANA, is contraindicated in:

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  individual intolerance to fruit acids;
• 
  too sensitive skin;
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  not healed skin injuries (scratches, etc.);
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  herpes and other rashes;
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  prolonged exposure to the sun;
• 
  telangiectasia (expansion of subcutaneous vessels).

If you have at least one of these contraindications, carefully read the makeup that you are buying. The labels rarely write the name "fruit acids", you can often meet them marking "AHA".

Even if you do not have any contraindications, you should still be cautious when using cosmetics with AHA. At first, optimal concentration of acids in cosmetics intended for home use - no more than 10%, with the pH being at least 3.5. Most "home" products contain about 3% fruit acids - this is clearly not enough for instant effect, but such means are safe.

Secondly, nobody is immune from allergies. Before using cosmetics with AHA, you need to apply it on the skin of the elbow - if irritation is not present, the agent can be used. At the first manifestations of side effects (itching, tingling, burning, pain, redness, etc.), the use of the drug should be stopped immediately!

Thirdly, it should be remembered that Fruit acids can increase the sensitivity of the skin to sunlight during use and a week after ittermination. Therefore, immediately after using cosmetics with AHA, it is not recommended to go out in the sun. But even if you go out after a while, be sure to apply sunscreen with SPF at least 15 to your skin.

Professional products containing fruit acids in high concentration, at home, you can not use! If you have no experience with handling suchmeans, you only hurt yourself. Chemical cleansing of the skin and other cosmetic procedures using highly concentrated fruit acids can be done only in the beauty salon, being fully confident in the skills of the master.

The problem with most agents with AHA acids is the balance between efficacy and safety. Concentrated fruit acids are effective, but dangerous, funds with low concentration - are safe, but ineffective.